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Backpack through Europe.
 
 
    By foot, train, bus, plane, taxi, metro, boat and funicular, I covered eight countries in the winter of 2000. In a brief, but exhilarating two months, I saw France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Czech Republic, and the Netherlands. Travels like this seem to always get recounted through lists, so I’d better stop there. You can pick up any number of books that will tell you where to go, what to see, how to act and where to stay. Rather than prescribe yet another European itinerary or recite a litany of attractions that cannot be missed, I’ll simply offer some observations from my time on the backpacker trail.

On expectations
Your expectations will profoundly impact what you end up liking and what you may ultimately find disappointing. I, for example, had high expectations for München beer houses, Italian pizza, and Viennese coffee shops. And while these are still immanently worthwhile experiences, each had a hard time living up to inflated expectations. Conversely, I expected little from the city of Nice, tours in Salzburg, and museums in Berlin, but guess what? I was pleasantly surprised.

On contrast
Herbert Spencer wrote that “an essential pre-requisite to all beauty is contrast.” Traveling in Europe, it’s easy to find beauty in the startling juxtaposition of medieval and modern, in the unexpected contrast of architectural styles, and in the dizzying array of cultures that neighbor each other on this small continent. Fall asleep on a train, and you’ll probably wake up in a distinctively new land. Cross a border and you are certain to be presented with new languages, customs and ethnicities. For me, the abrupt changes experienced while traveling overland in Europe only amplified the personality and unique beauty of each culture.

To observe or to participate
You are visiting another country; it’s O.K. to just observe and not to participate. I don’t think that I’ve ever read a guidebook that didn’t, with rarified pretension, suggest that the only way to really see a place was to live like a local. These books, especially ones by American authors, will encourage you to immerse yourself in the local culture, participate in its customs, and otherwise try to act like a resident. Then curiously, they will spend nearly every page of the book detailing all the touristy things to do. Listen. You’re not a local. You know it. They know it. You don’t have to live in Florence for 6 months to say that you’ve really been there.

The backpacker culture
If you travel solo, there is one culture that you will become intimately familiar with on your journeys through Europe, and that’s the nomadic, party-prone subculture of the backpacker. Even if your not staying at hostels – even if you’re not 22 and fresh out of college – even if you’re not Australian – it’s almost impossible not to find yourself running with other backpackers. You’ll meet them on trains. You’ll eat with them at expat bars. You’ll party with them into the night. They read the same guidebooks as you. They’re going to the same sites as you. You are bound by common purpose, lost in a foreign land, and often just desperate for some company. Your experiences with these other travelers may turn out to be your most treasured memories of Europe.

[June 2002]

 
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Copyright © 2002 Ken Exner. All Rights Reserved.