Ken's Travel Poll What should I do in Hong Kong? 40% Take the tram to Victoria Peak 26.6% Go to a Karaoke bar 20% Ride coasters at Ocean Park 13.3% Hike to the bronze Buddha on Lantau Island 0% Sign up for a Taijiquan lesson Total Votes: 15

Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

Striking contrasts of Hong Kong Park

Signage on streets of Kowloon, HK

Floating Restaurant in HK harbor

Hong Kong September 13-14, 2002

First full day in HK, and "full" might be an understatement. Today, I walked at least 8 miles, rode the Star Ferry (twice), learned the metro system, bought a cheap digital camera (US$120), went to Victoria Peak, rode aboard a sampan, ate dim sum, shopped at Stanley Market, and met an English girl who took me out for dinner. The restaurant served pan-Pacific fusion cuisine -- that kind that's sort of a staple in San Francisco, but it was good. The real story, though, is that afterwards, we went pub crawling in Lan Kwai Fong. First, let me say that the English influence is felt everywhere in Hong Kong -- from colonial architecture to Marks & Spencer to drunk Brits. Lan Kwai Fong is a cordoned off set of streets that is something like Chinatown meets New Orleans (except with a British rather than French influence). Under the heavy glow of neon and paper lanterns, crowds spill out unto the streets from pubs and karaoke bars. You have the ubiquitous drunk Englishman still in his suit from work slowly relaxing his tie, Australian expats leading the charge to order another round, tourists from every corner of the world milling about agog and bemused, and upwardly mobile Chinese twentysomethings still deciding whether to fashion themselves after teen-punk Japanese rock stars or their preppy British colleagues. Tonight, I saw a Chinese Elvis play "Suspicious Minds" in a white sequence jumper. I saw a Chinese waiter in a Scottish quilt serving beer at a pub. I saw an American MBA from Chicago vomit onstage during the second verse of his karaoke rendition of (and this is no joke) "Tequila Sunrise." I'm going to go to bed now and try very hard not to forget that any of this happened.

Hong Kong September 15, 2002

Let me try to explain how the weather works here.  Under the constant cover of clouds, you have little warning of when rain will come.  There are no transitional sprinkles or light showers; it either pours or it doesn't.  You'll be walking through the streets and suddenly pounded with rain.  Then, after five minutes, with the same abruptness with which it began, the rain will stop.  This seems to happen about once an hour. I'm told that it's late in the season for these types of tropical rains.  Apparently, they waited for me (you can't come all the way to Southeast Asia and miss out on a monsoon experience!) On the positive side, if it wasn't for the irregular showers, my sweat-spotted clothes might seem pretty offensive; the torrential rains seem to pick up where my body perspiration left off to ensure that I am entirely drenched. :: Postscript :: Shortly after writing this, the rains came again, but this time didn't cease.  It's been pouring constantly for about 18 hours now.  Apparently the rain gods heard me, and thought they'd throw a curveball.

Hong Kong September 16, 2002

This is my final day in Hong Kong before venturing into the mainland, beginning with the Guilin region.  Before leaving, I'll describe two of my more favorite HK experiences: :: Inner Kowloon :: As you head up Nathan Rd. away from Victoria Harbor and into the heart of the Kowloon district, the streets get grittier, tourist dissipate and Hong Kong's traditional urban life emerges.  Chock-full of crumbling tenements and stores selling everything from electronics to chickens, the Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok neighborhoods offer a glimpse of Chinese urban society and traditional outdoor market experiences.  In the side streets off Nathan Rd., the main thoroughfare, you can wander for hours through the fish market, bird market, flower market, jade market, and Temple Street night market. :: Hong Kong Park :: Most shops and sights don't open until 9:00am.  So, if you're up before 9:00am (a good dose of jetlag pretty much ensures that you are), there's probably little else you can do other than wander through public parks.  Fortunately, some of them are amazing.  Hong Kong Park, in particular, might even rank as my favorite experience in HK.  Nestled in the middle of tall mirrored skyscrapers in the heart of HK's financial district, Hong Kong Park is noteworthy for its dramatic contrasts.  Against the backdrop of the most modern symbols of HK, you will find lagoons, waterfalls, an aviary, a conservatory, and at 8:00am, dozens of elder locals engrossed in the serene meditative practice of Tai Chi.